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Minisail Abandond.

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Author Gordon
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#16 | Posted: 26 Jul 2017 11:53 
Hi Rob thats asham that the detail has been lost from origanal web sight. I emptyed the sail bag to look at the sail and see what nuber it was. There was some screwed up bits of paper which i think were origanaly rigging instructions.
There was a pice of paper with a date of 17/01/77 the sail number is7096.
all the best Gordon.

Author rob baker
Registered
#17 | Posted: 26 Jul 2017 20:35 
Date and Sail number probably accurate.
Sail on 423zero was 10 thousand and something, (from another boat), I removed numbers with thinners and elbow grease and fitted numbers to match hull.

Author RonnyDG
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#18 | Posted: 26 Jul 2017 20:57 | Edited by: RonnyDG 
Rob's right, don't worry about certification in case of GRP Minisails.
The MS is a 'lost class' but our luck is only genuine GRP ones ever have been made.
In case of doubt the group of people from minisail.org.uk will help to identify the boat, and (if needed) confirm it being a regular MS or not (class rules here).
Try not to go bonkers with mast- boom- and sail dimensions,and the Minisail will comply, allowing you to sail with PY 1220.

Author Gordon
Registered
#19 | Posted: 28 Jul 2017 14:17 
Thank you for the link to the class rules Ronny.
Rob I am only going on the sail number for my minisail sprint mk2 I havent founf a number on the hull yet as it is not stamped in the plastic ring around the mast soket I will try and remove it to see if it is under neath.
As I have said in a previous post the Monaco has a plywood suround at the mast collar with no visable number if time alows I will remove the collars on both boats.Grate support.
Regards Gordon

Author rob baker
Registered
#20 | Posted: 28 Jul 2017 22:21 
Gordon,
I have seen dozens of GRP minisails, numbers are only ever on mast collar, (not sure about wooden ones), I would stick with number you have found, if you want boat to look original you can make a collar and stamp number on it.

Author RonnyDG
Registered
#21 | Posted: 29 Jul 2017 18:14 
Managed to free the Meson centerboard at last.
Drawing here.
It's a picture of the drawing. Draw a 50 X 50mm grid on a sheet and reproduce your own real size original.

Notes:
(1) This is a copy of a Meson Centerboard. I think it's identical to the Sprint II, but recommend to make a cardboard version first to verify. Let us know if it does fit please.
(2) The thickness of the Sprint centerboard is 26mm (2 x 12mm + coating?).
(3) Measure the width of the slot for the king pin according to your setup.

Author Gordon
Registered
#22 | Posted: 31 Jul 2017 11:53 
Hi Rob and Ronny thats grait I didnt have the opertunity to investage further over the week end as whent for a crues with my partner in a commet treo.
Thank you for the drawing of the Meson center board I think I have some sewing tracing paper with that size grid on so I will check and let you know.The thickness does seem very large but it does taper again I will mesure mine and pin dimention.
On a seperate note does any one know of other Minisail members closer to Exeter or am I the ony known one so far?
all the best Gordon

Author rob baker
Registered
#23 | Posted: 31 Jul 2017 12:38 
Their used to be a couple at Roadford off the A30 and a couple at Padstow, not heard from them for a while, best thing to do is put out a internet call, Facebook, minsail.org, cvrda etc

Author Gordon
Registered
#24 | Posted: 4 Aug 2017 22:53 
Hi Rob thank you for your kind offer I might take you up on the offer on the wings at a later date.
I have managed to print drawings of centerboard and dagger board hope to go into town tomorrow to pick up some marine ply.
I am eager to get started. Just a quick question Rob did you use a new peace of stainless steel at the base of the mast embedded inthe hull?
All the best. Gordon

Author rob baker
Registered
#25 | Posted: 4 Aug 2017 23:56 
Gordon,
The cross is a piece of hardened aluminium, it's fixed to outside of hull, I drilled loads of holes through hull, buttered aluminium with gel coat and riveted it in place gel coat goes through holes and sets , giving a good physical bond, I then fibreglassed over the whole thing, wrapping it with clingfilm to keep it flat, then coated with gelcoat, flatted whole of hull and painted with 2 pack paint .

Author rob baker
Registered
#26 | Posted: 5 Aug 2017 21:37 
Gordon,
I should add the rusty circle you can see is still under plate, this is a sticking plaster repair, though done in a way that makes it permanent.
The aluminium plate is bent to shape of hull.
What can also happen is the hull can sag, the mast chimney both keeps deck and hull apart and from coming together, if chimney fails hull skin can sag or go in, my boat the hull had gone in, the circle was protruding from bottom of boat.

Author Gordon
Registered
#27 | Posted: 7 Aug 2017 12:01 
Hi Rob Yes on my boat the hole is protruding from the bottom og the hull. With a grait deal of rust so is the chimney that holdes the hull together and appart steel with a coating of fiberglass and resin?
All the best.
Gordon

Author rob baker
Registered
#28 | Posted: 7 Aug 2017 19:13 
Gordon,
The rust is from a plate that is set in to bottom of hull to help prevent mast doing a cookie cutter while it is twisting back and forth, obviously over time it's worn and corroded away, mast chimney is aluminium.
To do a proper repair is a major undertaking, but not undoable, I just didn't want to do it.

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